Tigris River at Cizre. Muyettin, Fama, Mellisa and Omar
Marissa, Muyettin and Fama at castle above Hasankeyf
Ferdi, Professor, Muyettin at restaurant
Turan, DD Representative and exception photographer for Euphrates River at Bierecek
Mustaffa and Hassan, Bald Ibis Sanctuary, DD
Last photo in Hasenkeyf: After swimming in the Tigris River, then hiking to the hot dusty cliffs of the castle, we sat in chairs in the river and shade where it was cool and drank Turkish tea. What a great way to end the day! What a great trip. I am deeply indebted to Doga Dernegi and the staff who made this such a fantastic, magical and heart breaking journey. Special thanks to Ferdi, Muyettin, Turan, Omar, Fama, Marissa, Digle, Engin, Mustaffa, Hassan, Urich Eichelmann, and Guven Eken for the friendship, hospitality and sharing their hearts and minds. I want to particular acknowledge travelling during Rameden. Last night on the way to the airport, at 7:19 Muyettin and Omar could finally eat and drink after a very hot hot day. Muyettin asked me if I knew what that first drink of water meant to him, and I think this is correct. "You are doing a give away to the Creator/ Allah for all the blessings he gives you. You are doing your spiritual practice, and remembering all those in the world who have no food or water. When you drink now, after not drinking all day, it is the very best drink of water in the whole world. You are reminded what a gift water is." This seems a core lesson for my travels on the Tigris and Euphrates Rivers, Firat and Digle Nehri. Water is life. Let us care for it, bless it, honor it, and protect it, for these source mother rivers run in our veins, run in our ancestry, and are our future.
Tigris River. Digle Nehri.
Hasenkeyf from the castle. If Ilusu Dam is constructed, this ancient city will be flooded, and all the people become environmental refugees.
The castel, in the cliffs above Hasenkeyf.
The beautiful Tigris River.
This wetland is near Cizre and on the Turkey, Iraq and Syrian borders in Kurdish ancestral and cultural lands. You can see that all of the hillsides around this area have been burned by the Turkish army. At the park in Cizre, I really wanted to see the local wetlands and riparian habitat. My idea was that this was a great area for a Peace Park. A local man escorted us to this poor degraded wetland. I photographed water withdrawal for irrigation, large fill being placed in wetland, trash, pollution, and overall degradation of habitat. Two Turkish soldiers walked around a field from the guard tower toward us and I photographed them. My friend asked to see my camera and advised me to erase these photos, which I did. As they arrived, I went forward with my US passport, explaining I was an American scientist studying wetlands. They asked to see my camera, and asked me to take more photos off. Then three army vehicles arrived, and the commanding officer appeared. I once again introduced myself and my business. All of the soldiers were very professional and as non menacing as soldiers can be if you are in a forbidden area without permission. The commander asked to see all of my photographs, and asked me to delete all of the photos of the burned hills or pointed north. The mountain to the north, ironically enough, is the mountain that Noah's arc landed on after the waters began to subside.
Illustration of erosion, desiccation and degradation of wetland.
Irrigation system withdrawing water from wetland
The soldiers didn't mind this photo. Notice the old tire, a sure fire indicator world wide of wetlands.
I did get this photo looking north at the burned hills. Kurdish guerillas had killed four soldiers in this are recently, so they were very justified in being concerned about attacks. All Turkish men must serve in the military, and many are very young. They were also guarding Ilusu dam. I must say that they were extremely professional and non menacing, although its always intimidating to be surrounded by army vehicles and soldiers.
Cizre
In Turkey, kitties can talk on cell phones! Really!
Tigris River park at Cizre. Temperatures are between 45-50 C or 114-122 F, yet only boys and men are swimming. No wetland or riparian habitat at all.
Dragonfly on vegetation along the river.
Wetland along Tigris River
Hiking up canyon behind Hasenkeyf, looking down on road between villages. In distance is horse drawn cart in around 45 degree C or 114 degree F temperatures.
Womens hiking day, good advertisement for Berkenstock sandles and all they can but should not accomplish - river and cliff hiking/ climbing. Not for the faint of heart.
From the bridge at Hasenkeyf looking out over Tigris River. My hotel had a small veranda looking over the Tigris, so could hear river sounds that will be forever silenced and drowned by Ilusu Dam.
My little boy guide around Hasenkeyf.
Little girl and kitten.
Ilusu Dam construction has begun and they are doing double construction shifts. This dam is huge and will have a devastating effect on the Tigris River. The world bank, European Union and several European investment firms have withdrawn funding for this project due to both environmental and human rights impacts.
I could only take pictures from inside the car, as the Turkish government has FORBIDDEN getting out of the car to take pictures!
Big equipment from inside the car.
Construction of Ilusu Dam
The Euphrates River on the way to Ilusu Dam for an idea of the undisturbed river condition. The following information is from Doga Dernegi, an NGO working on environmental issues in Turkey. Their web site is www.doganernegi.org; or www.stopilusu.com; or www.hasankeyfgirisimi.com. The dam is 65 km from the Turkey/ Syria/Iraq border and would have devastating downstream impacts on water flows, biodiversity and human rights in the lower watershed. The Dam is 135 m height, 1,820 m wide, and affects 400 km of the Tigris and tributaries. It will supply 3,800 GWh per year if built. There are five smaller dams proposed as an equivalent alternative to this dam. EVEN IF THE DAM IS CONTRUCTED IT COULD BE DESIGNED WITH AFTERBAY AND FOREBAY TO REGULATE FLOWS AND THE OUTFLOW DESIGNED TO SUSTAIN FISH AND AQUATIC LIFE AND BIODIVERSITY ALONG THE RIVER.
Marissa, Michelle and Hama above reservoir at Halfeti, a town "drowned" by reservoir and people relocated against their will.
Dam is regulated so that there is a complete lack of water for 2-5 hours each day, then a surge of water as they generate hydroelectricity of 1-3m downstream. Flows from dams at 15m, meaning very cold water that fish are not adapted to. Result of dewatering and temperatures is significant on native fish species, as well as introduction of non native fish species.
Before dams there were over 100 different fish species. The shaboot was 10-15 kg and is a great food fish (take it from me!). Another fish was from 150-165 kg. Dam regulation has been devastating to fish and aquatic life on Euphrates but this loss appears to be undocumented.
Aqua culture facilityfor forell. Produce 1,100,000 fish per year. Around 6 years ago the river otters cok kus agi (water dogs in turkish and arabic) broke in nets and released fish. 
Umit, fish manager of aquaculture facility. Shows where fish are raised for first 20 days before being released into larger containers.
