Thursday, July 9, 2009

Drought Threatens `Garden of Eden' Marshes in Iraq - ABC News

Drought Threatens `Garden of Eden' Marshes in Iraq - ABC News

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Drought Threatens `Garden of Eden' Marshes in Iraq
By HADI MIZBAN
The Associated Press
HOR AL-HAMMAR, Iraq

A severe drought is threatening Iraq's southern marshes — the traditional site of the biblical
Garden of Eden — just as the region was recovering from Saddam Hussein's draining of its lakes and swamps to punish a political rebellion.

Marshes that were coming back to life a few years ago with U.N. help are again little more than vast expanses of cracked earth. The area's thousands of inhabitants, known as Marsh Arabs, are victims of the debilitating drought that has ravaged much of Iraq and neighboring countries the last two years.

"I have no work. Our livestock have died, our children have left school because we don't have money to buy them clothes," said fisherman Yasir Razaq. He spoke in front of his wooden boat, which sat on a dried-up lake bed in the Hor al-Hammar marsh near Nasiriyah, 200 miles south of Baghdad.

"Before when there was fishing, we could get money for children's clothes," he said. "Now we have lost everything and our situation is miserable."

The Marsh Arab culture existed for more than 5,000 years in the 8,000 square miles of wetlands fed by the Tigris and Euphrates rivers. The marshes boasted hundreds of species of birds and fish, and periodic flooding created fertile farm lands.

The flooded, flat plain is said to have played an important role in the development of an agriculture-based culture that helped raise civilization to new heights. Some biblical scholars identified the vast marshes — the most extensive wetlands in the Middle East — as the site of the fabled Garden of Eden.

But after the 1991 Gulf War, the marshes became a casualty of Iraq's religiously based politics.
Saddam, a Sunni Muslim, considered the thousands of mostly Shiite Marsh Arabs to be disloyal — first in the Iran-Iraq war of the 1980s and more seriously when Shiites in southern Iraq rose up against his regime after a U.S.-led coalition forced the Iraqi army out of Kuwait.
Many Shiite rebels hid among the Marsh Arabs in the forests of reeds and myriad of lakes. To punish them, Saddam built a massive network of dams and earthen walls to divert water and dry the marshes.

The effect was devastating.

By the time Saddam was overthrown in 2003, the marshes had shrunk by 90 percent from their size in the 1970s, when they had covered nearly 3,500 square miles — larger than Delaware.
Many experts direly predicted that the marshes might disappear entirely by 2008. The United Nations launched an $11 million project to restore the marshes, including removing some of the barriers that were keeping water from flowing into the area. And by 2006, more than half the original marshlands had successfully flooded.

"Our ministry right from beginning ... started considering the restoration of the marshes area to be our priority," said Iraqi Water Resources Minister Abdul-Latif Jamal Rasheed, adding that the effort had achieved some success. The marsh restoration programs depend on adequate water flow in the Tigris and the Euphrates, the two rivers that gave Iraq its ancient name of Mesopotamia — Greek for "land between the rivers."

But the recent drought has caused the levels of those two rivers to fall. Iraq's winter ended without adequate rain for a second year in a row. Overall, the rainfall for the last two years has been only about 30 to 40 percent of normal levels— not only in Iraq but in Syria and southeastern Turkey to the north, where the great rivers begin. By the time the rivers meander through Iraq down to its southern marshes, much of the water has already been diverted into canals to irrigate parched farm fields.

Last month, the U.N.'s Food and Agriculture Organization and the Iraqi government announced a new $47 million program last month to restore the marshes, focusing on the southern provinces of Maysan, Dhi Qar and Basra. But the program's Iraq director, Dr. Fadel el-Zubi, expressed doubt that the marshes can be fully restored without a break in the drought. Also needed are new water-sharing agreements among countries in the region including Syria and Iran to give Iraq more access to water, he said. "There is much less water coming from neighboring countries," he said. "So the amount of water going to the marshlands will be less."
Much of the program is aimed at improving the lives of Marsh Arabs, who pursue a life of fishing and foraging that has not changed substantially for thousands of years.

Among other things, the program will include restocking the marshes with fish capable of surviving in areas where low water levels have raised the salt content, el-Zubi said.
He said the program would also help people in the region replenish their livestock, mostly sheep and water buffalo. "The main goal is to restore the maximum that you can within the coming five years and to enable the marshland people to resume farming, livestock production and so on," he said.

Even with the drought, the outlook for the marshes is better than a decade ago.
But that means little to many of the Marsh Arabs. "We hoped the new government might do something," said a fisherman who gave his name only as Mohammed because he feared criticizing the government publicly. "But it's still the same. This is the second time that the water has been drained away."
———
Associated Press writers Kim Gamel and Sinan Salaheddin in Baghdad contributed to this report.
Copyright 2009 The Associated Press. All rights reserved. This material may not be published, broadcast, rewritten, or redistributed.
Copyright © 2009 ABC News Internet Ventures
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Request for signatures to preserve biodiversity and cultural heritage of marshes: urgent need for water

This petition has been signed by the 500 Iraqi scientists and participants in the Third Scientific Conference on the Rehabilitation of Southern Iraqi Marshes. Over 22 percent of the marshes have been dried up through a combination of drought and upstream water diversions. The animals and people of Iraq are suffering terribly. Please help spread the word! Sign this petition and alert our government to support the Iraqi's in obtaining water rights for the marshland area.

Appeal to save the Mesopotamian marshes

History has recorded the honourable stand of many personalities, international trends and organizations in denouncing the crime of marshes desiccation during the 1990s and onwards. Iraqi scientists respect and appreciate highly that stand and consider it as the foundation stone which has later gathered the efforts to rehabilitate the marshes and save its people and its biota.

The desiccation of the marshlands led to catastrophic consequences on the environment and the eco-cultural heritage of the region. Large number of plant and animal species disappeared, the biodiversity has changed drastically, the migrating bird ceased coming for their natural breeding habitat, air temperature increased in the surroundings and the air became rather dusty. Most important of all is the loss of the long lasting eco-cultural heritage of the Mesopotamian marshes.
During 2003, the efforts of several international organizations and governments to restore the marshland have begun, and soon after almost 70% of the original marshlands were restored successfully. This has not been achieved without the sincere efforts of several governmental and international organizations. Unfortunately, rehabilitation of the marshes did not proceed as it was hopped for and the environment began to deteriorate again owing to water cut by some of the neighboring countries.

The scientists and researchers gathered in the 3rd International Conference on the Rehabilitation of the Iraqi Southern Marshes appeal to governments of the neighboring countries and international societies to help insuring and assigning a specific share of water for the Iraqi Mesopotamian marshes enough to restore and preserve its biodiversity and its long lasting cultural heritage.

Monday, April 27, 2009

On NPR today


Today I was on NPR on the marshes. To hear the radio podcast go to www.capradio.org/insight.

You are also invited to a public talk onWed April 29 at 4:00 pm in 1001 Mariposa Hall on the CSUS campus

Monday, April 20, 2009

Shatt al Arab April 16

Several of us went out on a large boat on the Shatt al Arab from Basrah. This is upriver from Iran, although the impacts of the Iran-Iraq war could be seen. There were a lot of large dead ships in the water and along the banks. This would be worth a fortune in salvage, that metal would be worth millions at least! There was not much riparian vegetation, and all exposed flat areas were covered with garbage. There was not a lot of additional boat traffic besides us.
Some of the side channels were quite lovely, with date palm trees and bougainvillea and reeds. You got a sense of the pre-war Shat al Arab, and how beautiful it was. We got to get out and walk around on private land at one point, and stretch our legs. Saw some beautiful birds in the natural areas. Very little riparian development along the main stem of the river. A great restoration opportunity, including native species and date palms – a living working landscape!
A patrol boat drove up to us with American and Iraqi soldiers. They were patrolling “to keep us safe.” I was wearing a scarf and looked down with my back to them and stayed quiet. I guess if they knew an American woman was on board they would have really hassled us for a long time, wondering what I was doing there. It made me realize things weren’t really safe. They were suspicious and kept getting their boat closer - I’m so much taller than Iraqi women, plus I was in field clothes and they were dressed beautifully. The soldiers asked if we had guns, meanwhile saying they were there to protect us and acting friendly. We were glad when they left.
We passed Saddam’s palace. It was huge. He had never been in it. The British and now Iraqi soldiers are garrisoned there. A sign says anyone coming within 50 feet will be shot. We stayed far away.
The joy of the day was being with Iraqi families and visiting on the boat. It was thoroughly an enjoyable treat to be with everyone.
However, the air was horrible. It wasn’t a driving dust storm, but the air was foglike and sepia toned from all the dust. It obscured our vision, and burned eyes and lungs. Pretty awful.
I’m left with the impression that this area has highly polluted air, land and water. It’s very important to document toxins with good lab equipment to then remediate and begin to rebuild a healthy environment. The Shat al Arab is much more salty, from 1 ppt to 4-5 ppt. Flows are significantly reduced. In 1977-1978 they were from 990-1,277 m3/sec; in 1993-1994 550-1,100 m3/sec, from 2005-2006 204 m3/sec, and this year <100 m3/sec. That is a significant reduction. Shad populations have declined 75%. Many other invertebrates etc are also declining, and the salty turbid water with warmer temperatures is adversely affecting the gulf. Terrible degradation of ecosystem structure and function.

al Ahwar the marshes April 15


Al Ahwar Field Trip to Marshes April 15
We went on a bus to the marshes on April 15. Driving to the marine science center, we passed extremely polluted water with the algae Dunaliella sp turning the water bright pink. Garbage was everywhere. Stray dogs snuffled through the garbage, well fed but in ill health. Little wetlands were also full of trash. Sheep and goats were moved by a shepherd, taking care that they stay together as they eat sparse vegetation and trash. Kids play soccer in the garbage. Here is the world’s largest economy in the world, with rubble from bombed buildings, trash and filth. Homes are mostly concrete block construction, with almost all of them having satellite dishes. I guess satellite dishes and TV’s are relatively cheap in Iraq.
We got to the marshes, and there were three boats waiting for us. One larger boats had supplies, and the other three were ready to transport us up the river. This are had been drained under Saddam’s rule. During the rehydration phase had been in fairly deep water, and now the water was much shallower. There are not banks, and a very flat topography. Vegetation is dominated by relatively short Phragmites reed, around 4 feet to 5 feet tall. They get much more dense and tall when they are mature.
We passed large piles of dirt. I guess these were bunkers from the war between Iraq and Iran, and a tank would have been behind them.
We saw grass houses along the banks built of reeds with some concrete blocks and barbed wires. They said the men come out here to the marshes to take care of the water buffalo. The water buffalo we saw were sleak and healthy looking.

We stopped for lunch, and they had brought fresh fish. It was my first experience of masgoof, fish cooked over an open fire! The feast was amazing, with cooked fish, Arabic bread, fruit, watermelon, cucumbers, water buffalo yogurt, greens, raw onion. Excellent!
We walked around the marshes after lunch. Someone found a young female Mesopotamian Marsh soft shelled turtle I got to hold, plus a large turtle shell. Some fishermen were pulling in net, very large net and a lot of work. They said there used to be many more fish. We shared our lunch with them in true Iraqi hospitality.
We also shared with Water Buffalo dog. It had been taking care of the water buffalo, and came up to us when it realized lunch was to be served. Very politely, the black and white dog with curly tail sat away from our lunch and waited on the outskirts. As we finished our lunch, he got bread, fish, and doggy feast. He did the same thing when the fishermen ate their lunch and once again was rewarded with his second doggy lunch. A happy dog, looking pretty healthy. I watched him touch noses with the water buffalo and play with them.
I haven’t identified the birds yet. A large kingfisher, some white egrets/ herons, a turn of some sort. Lovely day on the marshes.
I had to go poddy, there was no cover and no ladies room. Walked WAY down the bank, then into reeds for privacy. Definitely got muddy above my knees and almost lost my shoe in the mud. All the men were clean and white, and I was a mud puppy. They laughed but were very polite. When we got back to the Marine Science Center, Dr. Malik said I could not wash my clothes and bring some Mesopotamian mud back to America with me. I did bring the turtle shell back! What a great day.
After lunch the men prayed. Then we had tea, and I passed around Trader Joe’s snack mix. They hadn’t seen dried cranberries or blueberries; not sure the anti-oxidant properties translated. They all told jokes in Arabic, and I enjoyed not having to talk and being in the marshes. A wonderful day! Pictures to come!

April 13 Input







April 13 – Meeting on Sustainable Rehabilitation of Iraqi Economy, Ecosystems and Human Dignity
We had a meeting with many participants of the conference on Monday evening, organized by Dr. Malik and Dr. Adil of the Marine Science Center. Things in the marshes are in crises from both a human and ecosystem perspective due to lack of water. Mr. Hameed Abid, an invited guest speaker with expertise on investments, made three main points on difficulties in investing in Iraq: 1) foreigners are not allowed to own land, so would not want to invest in something where the business or investment could be nationalized or lost; 2) it’s extremely difficult to obtain a Visa for non-Iraqi’s; 3) there are poor management / business practices in Iraq. Therefore, funds disappear instead of being allocated to the tasks and deliverables of a given project. He suggested several investment priorities, including appropriate housing, hospitals, and schools as well as other business investments.
Other points made at this meeting and the conference is the critical need for schools, medical clinics and literacy, particularly in the marshes. Illiteracy has increased since the country has become so unstable over the last decades. This results in it being very difficult for young people to find employment, and to begin rebuilding the countries social infrastructure and intellectual capital. The Universities are free, so young people who become literate have many opportunities for education.
Dr. Hamid Ahmed represented the Prime Minister’s Office. He stressed the importance of returning water to the marshes, and investing in marsh rehabilitation.
During my presentation, I noted that there simply won’t be enough water to rehydrate the marshes. I recommended that a core conservation area be established using Biological Conservation Areas (such as those identified by Nature Iraq and Birdlife International) with flow through water. Then a buffer area with fishing or waterfowl management. Then an agricultural area with rice, date palms, citrus or crops. Human core areas could be established peripherally to the conservation areas for villages, archaeological sites, or sacred sites. I recommended that once the country was peaceful, ecotourism would be a good way to generate income in the marshes. Mr. Abid recommended this as well.
Ideas from audience (as best I could tell not speaking Arabic)
One person in the audience did not want to see the marshes exploited as a tourist area. He wanted to emphasize the eco-cultural aspect of the marshes. He felt Iraq was not ready for globalization.
Dr. Khalid Alfartosi “People think we don’t except change, but we do accept change. Someone told you we are like savages. People in the marshes need education, need to communicate with the outside world. The core thing to the Madan is to read buffalo and catch fish. We need to develop this.”
The young (less than 30) don’t like to go back to marshes, older people (>45) do
There is no life without water buffalo. We need a good life and resources. Some don’t want water to go back to the marshes because they are growing rice where the marshes once were.
The representative of the Minister of Environment. The marshes were 9,000 km squared in 1973, are less than 3,000 km now. We spent $225 billion D on the marshes in 2006. Now the money is lost with nothing to show for it. The government is now focusing on roads, schools and infrastructure. We have a Strategy Plan until 2014, with an Agreement with the United Nations. We have a conference in Amar in June to discuss the Strategy Plan. The first phase of the plan is conducting a comprehensive survey of everything in the marshes. UN Agencies such as UNEP will collaborate.

Friday, April 17, 2009

KISR

[Dave Hill posting for Michelle Stevens]

April 17, 2009 @ 2:00PM local time, Kuwait:

I am in Kuwait at the KISR with my friend Faiza al Yamani. She is praying so I can write. I had a driver and security protection to Iraq border, got out quickly. Took quite a while to get into Kuwait. It's around 2:00 in the afternoon here, my plane leaves around midnight. I slept all the way to Kuwait City.

...

I made some wonderful new friends.

...

[Michelle sounds exhausted, happy to have gone but happy to come home. She will be landing in San Francisco at 3:15PM Saturday and stay in the Bay Area until Sunday afternoon / evening. She may or may not have her phone ON this weekend. I suspect she will need a little down time.]